But not all of the city is out of reach for the budget traveler. Belleville, for example. Belleville means ‘beautiful city’ – which Belleville isn’t. It once was, back in the day when it was a wine-producing suburb of Paris, atop a high hill northwest of the city center, and Parisians went there for a taste of country living.
Belleville includes parts of both the 19th and 20th arrondissements, which are separated by the Rue de Belleville, a busy and fascinating street along which you can buy almost anything except furniture, cars, yachts and weapons. When I knew it, it was the most Parisian of districts because few tourists knew of it and it still had something of the quartier populaire, or working-class district, it had been for a few centuries.
Which meant that prices were low and the ambiance was unpretentious and warm (rather than chic or snobbish, as much of the rest of Paris tends to be). But as the cost of living in the rest of the city became increasingly high, young artists, chefs and other creatives moved up the hill and gentrified it for the same reason you want to be there, because it’s affordable, vibrant and still uniquely Parisian.
The lively Rue de Belleville, where the city’s energy never seems to sleep © Getty Images
Yes, it’s not what it used to be (nothing is) and it’s not as affordable as it used to be (nothing is). But it’s still one of the most affordable parts of town and, for my money, the most interesting. If I were to move to Paris (yeah, dream on!), that’s where I’d live, in a heartbeat.
A Little Histoire
Belleville used to provide Paris with water via a system of ditches that took the water down the hill into the big city. You can follow the path the water took by looking for the inspection chambers, or les regards, which were built to control water quality. Some of these small stone structures still stand. Just look for the Rue des Cascades (of course) and go on from there.
That will give you a pretext for checking out the many other charms of the quartier, such as the narrow side streets with old houses covered with street art, the many small boutiques, shops, cafés, galleries and restaurants, and always something unexpected. Belleville is a vibrant arts district, with small galleries and private studios offering open houses to those interested. Wherever you see a simple announcement, reading portes ouvertes, posted on a front door, just ring the appropriate bell and go on up.
You will have to become a flaneur, someone who strolls aimlessly, to get the most out of the neighborhood. Paris is a great walking city, but there’s no more exciting area in which to wander aimlessly than Belleville.
For orientation: The main drag of Belleville is, of course, the Rue de Belleville. It’s a wonderful street, chock-a-block with shops and restaurants. If you’re up for a long walk, just follow the street all the way down to the Place de la République and you can take a metro (or just continue walking) to anywhere in the city. Otherwise, just choose one of the side streets, right or left, off this main drag and walk, eyes wide open for surprises.
Place de la République glows in the warm embrace of a Parisian sunset © Getty Images
What to Look For (When You Get Tired of Being a Flâneur)
The Père Lachaise cemetery, for the graves of Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Colette, Frédéric Chopin, Marcel Proust, Georges Méliès, Marcel Marceau, Olivia de Havilland, Sarah Bernhardt and Édith Piaf.
Speaking of Piaf, she was born at 72, rue de Belleville. A plaque on the building’s façade confirms that fact. She often sang at Aux Folies , a lively café-bar farther down the street. It has an amusing terrace that’s great for people-watching.
Then walk uphill on the Rue de Belleville, on the same side of the street, until you come to the intersection with Rue des Pyrénées. Now turn around slowly and look down the way you’ve just come, all the way to the horizon. Yup, that’s the Eiffel Tower. I never got tired of that view.
A breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower from the serene Parc de Belleville © Getty Images
From that point, the corner of Pyrénées and Belleville, you can go anywhere. You can hop on the metro via the station on that corner. Or you can go back down the Rue de Belleville and turn left on Rue Piat, pass the Le Baratin restaurant (where you either have already eaten or will soon eat - see below) until you come to the Belvédère de Belleville, a lookout point atop the lovely little Parc de Belleville. And look straight ahead. There’s a view of Paris surpassed only (but not by much; and it’s far less crowded) by that from the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur atop the Buttee Montmartre.
Or you can go down the Avenue Simon Bolivar, which is the extension of the Rue des Pyrénées, until you come to one of the loveliest parks in the world, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Built atop an exhausted gypsum mine under Napoleon III, it is a wonderful place to have a picnic in the late afternoon or evening. Just find the grassy slope facing the Temple de la Sibylle, a kind of marble gazebo or belvedere standing 50 meters above an artificial lake, lie down in the grass and take a deep breath. Paris does not get more tranquil than that.
The iconic temple atop Parc des Buttes-Chaumont offers a slice of classical elegance © Getty Images
While you’re there, you might want to check out Rosa Bonheur, a lively(!) and nostalgic look back at the guinguettes, a kind of outdoor cabaret with dinner and dancing. The place is open Thursday to Sunday and is as diverse as the world. Expect nothing but fun.
The best guide to the area is a book of photos by the great Willy Ronis , who took thousands of photographs of Paris, including many of Belleville after World War II. He died in 2009 at the age of 99.
Where to Eat
When I knew the area, it had one outstanding place to eat, Le Baratin, just down the street from the Parc de Belleville. I suspect that the restaurant played its part in attracting other creatives to the area, because when it opened, more than 30 years ago, there was nothing like it in Belleville – or anywhere else in Paris.
Le Baratin was started by Argentine chef Raquel Carena, who began by cooking for construction workers in the neighborhood. When I first ate there, it was still unknown to the glitterati and gourmets of Paris. It featured wonderful natural wines and Ms. Carena’s delicious culinary creations, offered at remarkable prices.
They have an exquisite selection of wines at the cozy Le Baratin © Pexels
But word got around, and soon three-star chefs started showing up and singing her praises. Which attracted other denizens of the beau monde (or fashionable society). But she kept her sang-froid and kept the prices down. It is still a great place to eat and still affordable. But you now have to reserve well in advance, because it’s small, with about 10 or 12 tables. So reserve (at +33 1 43 49 39 70) the day you book your flight, if you book a month before you leave. (Eater’s advisory: The man who runs the dining room and acts as sommelier, or wine steward, is Raquel’s partner and can be caustic, sarcastic and downright rude. Ignore him, except when you ask him about his wines. He is like the dragon you have to get past to reach the treasure.)
Most of the restaurants on the rue de Belleville are Asian, mostly Chinese or Thai, and they are all worth a visit. The best-known of the lot is Lao Siam , at 49, Rue de Belleville, a Thai and Laotian place that has been there since the 1980s. But check out the other eateries on the street, which are a little cheaper and have always served good food.
Also try the L’Escargot Bar , a casual restaurant that serves a great deal more than snails and sometimes has live music. It is located at 50, Rue de la Villette (+33 9 83 67 48 23), in a truly ugly, yet fascinating, neighborhood. To get there, turn left off the Rue de Belleville onto the Rue de la Villette and stroll, while checking out the shops.
Savoring escargot at the famous L’Escargot Bar © Getty Images
As always, if you see an eatery you like, look at the menu (is there an affordable three-course menu or a main course you think you’d like at a happy price?) and the clientele (do they seem to be enjoying themselves? are they locals?) and staff (are they smiling?) before you choose a restaurant.
How to Picnic in Belleville
So you are going to have a picnic at the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Good for you. First, check the sky for clouds and check your weather app too. All okay? Great. Here are some handy addresses for your picnic menu:
For cheeses: Fromagerie Lefort, 118, Rue de Belleville
For the baguette: La baguette des Pyrenees, 36, Avenue Simon Bolivar (right near the park)
For fruit & veggies: Les Halles Bolivar, 40, Avenue Simon Bolivar
Butcher: La Celloise - Brissiet Michael, 105, Rue de Belleville
For wines: La Cave de Belleville, 51, Rue de Belleville (ask about their tastings, or dégustations)
A colorful array of fresh fruits at the local Belleville market © Getty Images
Or, you want to get everything in one place, go to the Franprix at 24 Rue Pradier or, better, Monoprix, 133 Rue de Belleville. But I suggest that you make all the individual stops because (1) you already know what it’s like to shop in a supermarket, which is pretty much the same everywhere, and (2) it is always a pleasure to shop in Paris, even if you’re only buying an apple.
Or just get food to go (à emporter) from one of the local restaurants.
What to bring: corkscrew, plastic knives and forks, paper plates, sharp knife for the cheese, plastic glasses for the wine (relax, it’s a picnic), paper towels, appetite
Finding a Place to Stay
Overnighting in Paris is going to be your biggest expense. The days when you could find a decent hotel for 50 euros a night are gone with the winds of time. As always in France, reserve with the hotel itself rather than one of the gazillion online booking sites. It’s almost always cheaper.
For room rates, I ‘reserved’ a double room for seven days in September on all three. The prices indicated are for the week.
Aparthotel Adagio Paris 19eme Cité de la Musique, 28, Boulkevard d’Indochine,: Located near the Parc de la Villette, a large, entertaining park for kids and adults. It’s the farthest of the three recommended hotels from the heart of Belleville, but the walk will do you good and will be just another pretext to find an unexpected café, gift shop, shoe store, piece of street art.
It’s also near the Canal St. Martin, so you can take a boat all the way to the Musée d’Orsay from there (or use the trip to come back to the hotel). The trip lasts 2.5 hours and there are many stops as the boat waits for the locks to empty and fill with water (or the other way). It’s a great way to see that part of the city, and you can always get off at one of the locks if you see something that strikes your fancy. It’s just a way to flâner on water. Tip: Don’t take the tour in the rain or the cold.
The tranquil beauty of Canal St. Martin under the night sky © Getty Images
Some other hotels worth mentioning are Hotel Relais Bergson , 124 Avenue Simon Bolivar and Hotel La Perdrix Rouge 5, Rue Lassus which is right off the Rue de Belleville, on a quiet square.
So, Why Belleville?
Even with the gentrification, Belleville remains the most Parisian of quartiers and will leave you with the feeling that you saw so much more than the Mona Lisa or the Place de la Concorde. Of course, you can always go sightseeing in the center of Paris while staying in Belleville . But if you’re like me, you will be happy to come back, away from the city’s tourist hordes and its expensive delights. And you’ll be able to say that, now and then, you actually caught a glimpse of the real Paris, as it was before it became overcrowded, overhyped and overpriced. And remember: flâner, flâner, flâner.
